There is a growing movement about donating your old clothes. Even fast fashion companies like H&M or Zara are willing to take your old clothes, but what is really behind this? Every time you donate your clothes there are three possible outcomes, they will either be sold, donated or turned into new garments. It all sounds great, except for the following facts:
- Selling the donated clothes: In countries such as US, Canada & UK, just 10 to 30% of the clothes that are donated end up being sold, usually through a thrift store/second-hand shop or a charity shop. I personally love to browse and buy from vintage stores, but to be honest, whenever I buy vintage clothes I search for nice, well-constructed and unique pieces. I would not buy a second-hand H&M t-shirt or a Forever21 dress and my research confirms that most millennials and gen-xers feel the same way. So the reality is that only the best garments have any chance of being resold.
- Donating to people in need: Most of the clothes end up being donated to third world countries, which means they have to be shipped and distributed thus increasing the carbon footprint of the garment. Once they arrive in a third world country, the may end up being sold cheap or given away. In either case, they are competing with local artisans and local production that cannot compete economically the free or super cheap stuff coming from western countries. Local manufacturers have to either adapt or close their business. This harms the local economy and industry of those countries.
- Turn into new clothes: Let’s be honest, recycling fibers is a complex process that cannot apply to all the garments. If the garment is made out of a mix of fibers it is impossible to separate out the individual fibers. Nor is it always possible to recycle garments made out of one material, here is why:
- Cotton: cannot be broken down to use in new garments because the quality of the fibers deteriorate and would not support reuse, but it can be used for paper.
- Silk: cannot be recycled. What you might find as recycled silk, is often the left over unused threads of the silk manufacture.
- Polyester: can be recycled but just as any other plastic it can only be done a few times before the polymers break down and the plastic is no longer useable, because as its molecular composition changes.
- Nylon: can be recycled, but the cost of the process is higher than the raw material, so it’s rarely recycled.
As you can see, giving new life to our garments can be complicated. This is precisely why we need to be responsible consumers and only purchase products that we are going to use many times. This is the most eco-friendly approach we can have until a more sustainable solution can be found!
The skirt I am wearing today was preloved by my friend Irene!
Pictures: Beatriz Lozano
